Next to room makeovers, table builds are my happy place!! Unfortunately, I don’t share them near as much as I would like. It’s a post that takes a lot of time to put together and sometimes time just doesn’t allow it. And sometimes a table build is so good, you have to share it again! Last summer I built two of these. One for myself and one for a friend! This $2000 Pottery Barn Brooks Dining Table hack was a real hit on my Instagram account. And the best part, I built it for less than $200! Now, I know what you’re saying, “that was last year! We’re in a lumber price surge now!” I hear ya! Feeling it here, too. But, let’s be real–we can still build this table for a heck of a lot less than we could ever buy it in the store! So today, I’m sharing this easy build with you. I don’t use that word lightly, this is truly an easy build! So let’s get started…
HOW TO BUILD THE POTTERY BARN BROOKS DINING TABLE HACK
(Instructions are based on a 7ft long x 45″ wide; 30″ tall table) If building a different size, be sure to adjust measurements accordingly).
2x6x8 pine boards (9)
2x6x8 pine boards (4)
APRON & SUPPORTS:
2x4x8 pine boards (4)
GRK Wood Screws 2 1/2″ (any brand wood screw will work; just sharing my favorite here)
Finish (I.E. paint/stain/poly) (If building for an outdoor space, be sure to use exterior poly)
Table saw (OPTIONAL)
Affiliate Links Included
NOTE: If you’ve never used a Kreg Jig, here’s a great tutorial. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend buying one. You will use it all the time in the DIY realm! And it makes builds so much easier!
Step One: (OPTIONAL) Rip your boards
This step is completely optional. I like to get rid of the manufactured edge on all of my 2x’s before starting any project. This is very easy, but does require a table saw. I’ll share the widths I take them to and then explain how I do this…
For the table top, I rip the nine 2×6’s to 5″ wide. (2×6’s are actually 5 1/2″ wide)
For the legs, I rip the four 2×6’s to 4 1/2″ wide.
For the apron & supports, I rip the 2×4’s to 3″ wide. (2×4’s are actually 3 1/2″ wide)
Now for How I Do This: (Here’s a great post on how I give my boards a finished look)
I’ll use the table top boards for my example. As noted above, I want my 2×6 table top boards to be 5″ wide. They are originally 5 1/2″ wide. I simply set my table saw for 5 1/4″ and rip one side of my 2×6. Then I set my table saw to 5″, flip my board over and rip that side of my board. Now I have a 5″ board with straight edges on both sides. Follow these same steps for your other boards, to get rid of that manufactured curved edge and achieve a straight edge look.
Step Two: Build the legs
Cut twelve 2×6’s to 28 1/2″ long. Glue 3 boards together and clamp to let dry. When finished, you will have 4 legs that look like this…
Step Three: Build the frame (apron and supports) (Tip: Read “Note” at the bottom of Step Three before starting on Step Three)
Cut two 2×4’s to 75″ long. (Long part of the apron) Add 2 pocket holes to each end and add them along the long part of the board.
Cut two 2×4’s to 36″ long. (Short part of the apron) Add 2 pocket holes to each end and add them along the long part of the board….
Attach the 36″ 2×4 between 2 of the legs using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Note the direction of the vertical pocket holes….this is very important for when you’re ready to attach the table top…..
Repeat with other two legs and remaining 36″ 2×4.
Then attach long boards (75″) to both ends using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. As shown below….
NOTE: 1. Make sure all of the pocket holes are on the inside of the frame.
2. Make sure all of the pocket holes for the table top are pointing down, so that
when you go to attach your screws, you’re able to get to the holes. Very Important!!
3. Inset each of your apron boards about 3/4″.
Cut three 2×4’s to fit between the width of the table frame. These are your supports to keep your tabletop from bowing with time and wear and tear. Drill 2 1/2″ pocket holes on each end of your 2×4’s and along the edge. Using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, evenly space these boards and attach to long apron boards. As shown below….
(Unfortunately, I failed to take a picture of this before adding my stain). It’s best to turn the table frame upright and then add these boards, because you want them flush with the side aprons. The reason for this is: your tabletop will be going on top of this frame and you want your tabletop to sit as flat as possible.
Step Four: Build tabletop
Cut nine 2×6’s to 84″ each. Drill 2 1/2″ pocket holes down the length of each 2×6 and attach together using clamps and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. As shown below….
Note: No need to drill pocket holes in the last board (as you can see in picture above), since it will not be attached to another board.
Step Five: Attach tabletop
Flip tabletop over and position onto frame. Attach using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws from the underside of the frame. This is where your pocket holes, along each edge of your apron and supports, come into play….
Here’s a view of the pocket holes (to attach the table top) from the under side of the table. Remember when I said, this was Very Important!?….
Step Six: Sand and Finish
Sand entire table with a 60-grit and then again with a 220-grit sheet of sandpaper.
Add stain or paint and at least 3 coats of poly (one more for added protection, if placing your table outside). I used MinWax Special Walnut Stain (bottom) and Annie Sloan Graphite Chalk Paint (top); along with General Finishes Exterior Topcoat….
I got a lot of questions about this table on Instagram and actually had a friend reach out and ask me to build her a 9 footer…
With two benches….
Our new table is the perfect addition to our deck. Love how sturdy and solid it is. This sucker isn’t going anywhere…
And these metal chairs were a steal! We all know chairs are expensive, but not these!!
And at night!! Love this outdoor space…
PIN IT FOR LATER….
Until next week,
Happy Building, Friend!!
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